Savannah, GA
Furnace and heating repair in Savannah, GA
When the heat stops in a Savannah home, the fault may be ignition, airflow, a safety control, the blower, the thermostat or — on a heat pump — the refrigerant and defrost system. We diagnose the cause before replacing anything. The heating diagnostic is $89, quoted before we start; you approve the repair before work begins; and no-heat emergencies are answered 24/7.
- 1997
- family-owned, based in Savannah
- $89
- heating diagnostic, quoted before we start
- 24/7
- for no-heat emergencies
- Same day
- often available, never promised
Signs your heating system needs repair.
No heat is the obvious sign, but it is not the only one. A furnace that tries to light and stops, a blower that never shuts off, short cycles, cold rooms, a new sound, a persistent odor or an unexplained winter power bill all deserve attention. The pattern helps narrow the search, but it does not identify the failed part by itself.
The furnace will not start or ignite
A thermostat, breaker, service switch or loose furnace door can stop the sequence before it begins. If the inducer runs but the burner never lights, the fault may be the pressure switch, igniter, gas supply or a safety control. The sequence has to be observed to know where it stops.
Furnace not ignitingIt lights, then shuts off within seconds
That pattern often points to flame proving. The burners light, but a dirty or failing flame sensor does not confirm a safe flame, so the control board closes the gas valve. The sensor should be tested and cleaned or replaced as needed, not bypassed.
Why a furnace lights and stopsIt runs briefly, stops, then starts again
Several-minute cycles can mean the furnace is overheating and a limit switch is doing its job. A dirty filter, blocked return, blower problem or incorrect airflow may be underneath it. Replacing the switch without correcting the cause leaves the furnace overheating.
Furnace short cyclingThe blower runs, but the air is cold
The fan may be set to On, the burners may have dropped out, or a safety limit may have stopped the heat while leaving the blower running. Heat pumps also deliver gentler air than furnaces and briefly blow cooler air during defrost, so the equipment type matters.
Furnace blowing cold airA new noise, odor or bill appears
Buzzing, grinding, repeated clicking or a persistent electrical smell should not be ignored. On a heat pump, a sharp rise in winter electricity use can mean auxiliary resistance heat is running far more than it should, even when the rooms still feel warm.
High energy billsNo heat at all? Call (912) 858-3737 rather than sending a request — no-heat emergencies are answered 24/7. Same-day visits are often available, but not promised.
When a heating problem is an emergency.
A house with no heat during a cold spell needs prompt help, but gas and combustion warnings come first. A gas odor, a carbon monoxide alarm, soot, smoke or flame outside the burner area is not a wait-and-see problem. Leave the equipment alone, get people to safety when indicated, and make the first call from outside.
Stop, get clear and call
- You smell gas in or around the house
- A carbon monoxide alarm sounds
- You see soot, smoke or flame outside the burner compartment
- An electrical burning smell persists or the breaker trips again
For a gas odor or carbon monoxide alarm, leave the house and call 911 or the gas utility first. Once the immediate hazard is handled, call us for the equipment.
(912) 858-3737The first-start smell
A light dusty smell for a short time on the first heating cycle of the season can be normal. Dust settles while the equipment sits idle and burns off when it gets hot. A smell that continues, smells electrical or plastic-like, produces smoke, or comes with repeated shutdowns is different: switch the system off and call.
A working carbon monoxide alarm belongs on every level of a home with fuel-burning equipment and outside sleeping areas. Test the alarms before the heating season rather than using the furnace as the test.
What you can check before calling.
A few safe checks can solve a setting or airflow problem and give the technician useful information. Confirm the thermostat, filter, vents, breaker and service switch, then stop. Furnace panels, gas valves, electrical cabinets, capacitors and refrigerant circuits are not homeowner troubleshooting areas, and repeated resets can hide the symptom or make a fault worse.
Set the thermostat to Heat and the fan to Auto
Raise the set point a few degrees above room temperature. Replace thermostat batteries if it uses them. On a heat pump, use Heat rather than Emergency Heat unless a technician has told you otherwise.
Look at the air filter and open the returns
Replace a visibly dirty filter with the correct size and keep supply registers and return grilles open. Restricted airflow can overheat a furnace or leave a heat pump short of capacity.
Check the breaker and service switch once
Make sure the heating-system breaker and the switch beside the indoor unit are on. A breaker that trips again after one reset is reporting a fault; leave it off and call.
Make sure the furnace door is seated
Many furnaces have a door switch that prevents operation when the access panel is not fully in place. Reseat the panel without opening or touching the burner and electrical compartments.
For a heat pump, look at the outdoor unit
Light frost, steam and a brief change in sound during defrost are normal. A coil encased in solid ice, a fan striking ice, or ice that never clears needs service — do not chip or melt it off.
Stop and call if
- The gas odor, carbon monoxide alarm, smoke or electrical smell rules apply
- The breaker trips again after one reset
- The furnace keeps trying to light without staying on
- The outdoor heat-pump coil becomes a solid block of ice
- The house is continuing to lose heat
Common furnace faults and what they mean.
Modern gas furnaces start in a deliberate sequence: the inducer establishes draft, a pressure switch proves it, the igniter heats, the gas valve opens, the burners light, and the flame sensor confirms combustion before the blower starts. Knowing where that sequence stops separates an ignition fault from an airflow, venting, control or gas-supply problem.
- Power
- Thermostat
- Filter & return
- Heat section
- Blower
- Venting
Igniter and pressure-switch faults
A cracked hot-surface igniter cannot light the gas. An inducer or pressure-switch problem stops the sequence earlier because the furnace has not proved safe draft. Both can look like a furnace that clicks and never produces flame, which is why the order of events matters.
Flame-sensor faults
A coated flame sensor may allow ignition and then shut the gas off within seconds. Cleaning or replacing it is a routine repair, but the shutdown is a safety action and the sensor should never be bypassed.
Limit switches and restricted airflow
A limit switch opening after the furnace has run for a while can mean it is too hot. The filter, returns, supply registers, blower and temperature rise all need checking so the reason for the overheat is corrected with the switch.
Blower, board and thermostat faults
A motor, relay, control board, wiring problem or thermostat can interrupt the sequence or leave the fan behaving oddly. Electrical measurements show whether the component is being told to run and whether it can respond.
Heat exchanger and venting concerns
The heat exchanger separates combustion gases from household air, and the vent carries those gases outdoors. Their condition is a safety question, not simply a comfort question, so both are inspected when the symptom or equipment condition calls for it.
Heat-pump problems look different.
A heat pump moves heat with the same refrigerant circuit it uses for cooling, then reverses direction in winter. Its normal supply air feels gentler than furnace air, and occasional defrost is expected. Trouble begins when the house cannot hold temperature, the outdoor unit stays iced, emergency heat takes over, or auxiliary heat runs far more than the weather requires.
Defrost is normal; a block of ice is not
In cold, damp weather the outdoor coil collects frost. The system briefly reverses to melt it, which can create steam and cooler air indoors. Frost that never clears can point to a sensor, defrost board, fan, airflow or refrigerant problem.
Heat pump iced up or stuck in defrostAuxiliary heat should assist, not quietly take over
Electric resistance strips are designed to help during defrost and when the heat pump needs backup. A thermostat set to Emergency Heat, incorrect staging or a compressor-side fault can leave those strips carrying the load and raise the bill sharply.
Auxiliary heat running constantlyRefrigerant and the reversing valve matter in both seasons
Low charge, a leak or a reversing valve that does not shift properly can reduce heating even if the system seemed acceptable in summer. Refrigerant work requires instruments and certified handling; it is not a top-off based on a guess.
Heat pump not heatingThermostat setup has to match the equipment
A heat-pump thermostat has to know the system type and when to stage backup heat. A replacement thermostat wired or configured like a conventional furnace can create poor heating without any mechanical part having failed.
Why Savannah's short heating season matters.
Savannah winters are mild compared with most of the country: NOAA's 1991–2020 normals put a typical January day near 61°F by day and 40°F at night. That makes heat pumps a natural fit, but it also lets furnaces sit untouched for months. Long idle periods are why a fall test matters more here than the calendar age alone suggests.
- 61°F
- normal January daytime high
- 40°F
- normal January nighttime low
NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport.
Months of sitting can expose a weak first start
A corroded connection, weak igniter, dirty flame sensor, stale thermostat battery or obstructed vent may go unnoticed while the equipment is off. Running the system on a mild autumn day gives you time to hear, smell and observe the first complete cycle before comfort depends on it.
Savannah houses do not share one airflow story
Historic houses may have ducts threaded through closets, chases or shallow crawlspaces; southside ranches often have longer crawlspace runs; newer homes tend to be tighter. Uneven heat may come from the distribution system or the envelope rather than the furnace, so the house belongs in the diagnosis.
Mild winters favor a correctly set-up heat pump
Heat pumps work most efficiently in milder outdoor temperatures, which suits coastal Georgia. That advantage depends on correct sizing, refrigerant charge, airflow, defrost operation and backup-heat staging — not simply the label on the outdoor unit.
What happens during a heating service call.
The visit starts with the behavior you noticed, then follows the system through a complete heating cycle. We identify the equipment, reproduce the symptom, test the controls and airflow, inspect the combustion and venting side on gas equipment, and measure the heat-pump circuit when indicated. You get the finding and price before any repair begins.
Start with the symptom and equipment
The technician confirms whether the home has a gas furnace, electric furnace, dual-fuel system or heat pump, then asks what changed and when. Error codes and the order of events matter, so avoid repeated resets if you can.
Run the system and follow the sequence
For a furnace, that means draft, ignition, flame proving and blower operation. For a heat pump, it means thermostat calls, indoor and outdoor operation, defrost behavior and backup-heat staging.
Check power, controls and airflow
Voltage, safeties, thermostat signals, filter condition, blower operation, return air and supply air are checked. Temperature rise helps show whether a furnace is moving the amount of air it should.
Inspect the safety-critical side
On gas equipment, the burner, heat exchanger, gas connections and venting are inspected as appropriate. On a heat pump, refrigerant pressures and temperatures are measured only when the symptom points there.
Explain the fault and quote the repair
You are told what failed, what evidence supports it, what the repair will cost and whether any related condition should be corrected. Work starts only after you approve it.
Repair, restart and verify
After the approved work, the system is run again. We verify that the sequence completes, the safety controls remain satisfied and the home is receiving heat before the visit is closed.
The Savannah heating diagnostic is $89. That is the price to find the fault; the repair is quoted separately and approved by you before work begins.
How much does heating repair cost in Savannah?
There is no honest repair total until the fault is known. The heating diagnostic is $89, quoted before we start. After testing, you receive the exact repair price and decide whether to proceed. The figures below come from our own Savannah price list: flame sensors and igniters sit at one end; motors, boards, gas valves and heat exchangers involve more parts or labor.
Our Savannah price list
- Heating diagnostic
- $89
- Flame sensor
- From $149
- Ignitor
- From $199
- Pressure switch
- From $199
- Gas valve
- From $349
- Control board
- From $449
- Blower motor
- From $499
- Inducer motor
- From $549
- Heat exchanger
- Custom quote
Prices are starting points for standard work in the Savannah area. Final price depends on the system and site, and is confirmed before work begins. Permits and code-required upgrades may be additional.
The failed part
A sensor or igniter is a different repair from a variable-speed blower, inducer, control board or heat exchanger. The quote follows the diagnosed component rather than a generic furnace-repair average.
Access and equipment design
A closet furnace with open access is a different job from an air handler in a tight attic or a system built around proprietary communicating controls. Access, disassembly and the exact replacement part change the labor and material.
Whether the symptom has an underlying cause
A limit switch that opened because airflow is restricted needs the airflow problem addressed. A failed part replaced without correcting what stressed it can leave the same failure waiting to happen again.
Furnace and heat-pump repairs are different lists
A heat pump can involve a defrost board, fan motor, refrigerant leak, reversing valve, coil or compressor. Those prices live with our heat-pump service, because presenting them as furnace parts would make the comparison less useful.
Should you repair or replace the heater?
A minor ignition or sensor repair does not justify replacing a sound system. The comparison changes when a major component fails on older equipment, repairs are clustering, efficiency and comfort are poor, or a gas furnace has a safety-critical heat-exchanger problem. We put both numbers in front of you when replacement is a credible alternative, rather than using age alone.
| Factor | Repair makes sense | Compare replacement |
|---|---|---|
| Age and condition | Younger equipment in otherwise sound condition | Older equipment with visible deterioration or declining performance |
| Repair history | An isolated fault after reliable service | Several repairs beginning to cluster |
| Scope of repair | Igniter, sensor, switch or another contained fault | Heat exchanger, compressor or another major assembly |
| Safety | The repair restores safe operation | The heat exchanger or venting creates a safety concern |
| Comfort and bills | The home heats evenly at a reasonable operating cost | Persistent uneven heat, backup-heat use or high bills remain |
| Parts and warranty | The correct part is available and the system remains supportable | Parts are scarce or a new-system warranty has meaningful value |
The estimate should compare complete scopes
Replacement is not just an equipment price. Sizing, matched indoor and outdoor components where applicable, duct changes, electrical or venting work, controls, permits and disposal all belong in the written scope. A lower number that omits necessary work is not the same offer.
Free estimates are available for new systems and replacements. Ask about financing when the project is large enough to need it; the lender sets the rate, term and approval.
How to prevent a first-cold-night breakdown.
The best preventive step in Savannah is simple: run the heat before the first cold night. A complete cycle on a mild fall day can expose an ignition fault, a stale thermostat battery, a blocked vent, an unusual sound or a dirty filter while scheduling is still flexible. Annual service adds the measurements and safety checks a homeowner cannot perform.
Test one full heating cycle in fall
Set the thermostat above room temperature and let the system start, produce heat and shut off normally. Pay attention to repeated ignition attempts, long delays, new sounds and odors that do not fade.
Change the filter on the filter's schedule
A filter should be changed according to its type, household conditions and actual loading, not a universal monthly rule. Check it regularly, use the size and type the system is designed for, and do not stack filters.
Keep the air path and venting clear
Do not close supply registers or block returns with furniture. Keep high-efficiency furnace intake and exhaust terminations clear outside, and keep leaves and debris away from a heat-pump outdoor unit.
Test carbon monoxide alarms
Use the alarm manufacturer's test procedure and replacement schedule. An alarm is not a substitute for maintaining fuel-burning equipment, but it is an essential independent warning if combustion gases enter the home.
Schedule heating service before demand peaks
A fall visit can cover ignition, safeties, combustion, airflow, electrical connections and thermostat operation before the system is needed every night. Maintenance does not prevent every failure, but it gives developing faults a chance to be found early.
Heating systems we service in Savannah.
We diagnose residential gas furnaces, electric furnaces, heat pumps and dual-fuel systems across Savannah, including the controls, airflow and duct conditions that affect them. Brabham is a Trane Authorized Dealer, but a repair visit starts with the equipment already in the home. For an uncommon make or system type, share the model information when you book.
Gas and electric furnaces
Gas-furnace work includes the ignition sequence, burners, flame proving, safety controls, heat exchanger, venting, blower and airflow. Electric-furnace work centers on the heating elements, sequencers, controls, electrical supply and blower.
Ducted heat pumps and dual-fuel systems
Heat-pump diagnosis covers the refrigerant circuit, reversing valve, defrost controls, outdoor fan, thermostat setup and auxiliary heat. A dual-fuel system adds the changeover between the heat pump and gas furnace, which has to be configured and proven in both modes.
The ductwork and house around the equipment
A machine can produce heat while the rooms stay uneven because the return is restricted, a duct is leaking or crushed, or the building loses heat faster than the distribution system can deliver it. We separate equipment faults from delivery problems before recommending capacity.
Why Savannah homeowners call Brabham.
Family-owned since 1997, based on Ogeechee Road, with the diagnostic price given before work starts, the repair price approved before work begins, and 24/7 help for a house with no heat.
Diagnostic pricing given up front, before any work starts
24/7 emergency service for no-heat and no-cool calls
Ask about financing on replacements and larger repairs
We meet or beat any verifiable quote on comparable work
If something is not right, we come back and make it right
Trane Authorized Dealer, licensed & insured, background-checked technicians
Savannah heating-repair questions.
- How much does furnace repair cost in Savannah?
- It depends on the fault. The heating diagnostic is $89, quoted before we start. After the technician identifies the problem, you receive the exact repair price and approve it before work begins. Our published Savannah starting prices range from ordinary sensor and ignition repairs to larger motor, board and heat-exchanger work.
- Do you offer 24/7 emergency heating repair?
- Yes. No-heat emergency calls are answered 24/7. Call (912) 858-3737 rather than submitting an online request so the situation can be triaged directly. Same-day service is often available, but no arrival window is promised until the schedule is checked.
- Is a burning smell normal when the heat first comes on?
- A light dusty smell that fades after the first cycle of the season can be normal. A smell that continues, smells like gas, burning plastic or wiring, produces smoke, or comes with a carbon monoxide alarm is not. Switch the system off if it is safe to do so, leave the house for gas or carbon monoxide, and call from outside.
- Why does my furnace light and then shut off?
- A dirty or failing flame sensor is one common cause: the burners light, the control does not receive a reliable flame signal, and it closes the gas valve within seconds. Ignition, venting and control faults can produce similar behavior, so the sequence should be tested before a part is replaced.
- Why does my heat pump blow cool air in winter?
- Heat-pump supply air normally feels less hot than furnace air, and a few minutes of cooler air can occur during defrost. If the house cannot hold temperature, the outdoor unit stays iced, or the air never warms, the thermostat, airflow, refrigerant circuit, reversing valve and defrost controls need to be checked.
- Should auxiliary heat run on a Savannah heat pump?
- Sometimes. Auxiliary heat may assist during defrost or when outdoor conditions exceed the heat pump's available capacity. It should not quietly carry the normal heating load for long periods. Constant AUX or Emergency Heat, especially with a sharp bill increase, deserves a check of the thermostat, staging and heat-pump operation.
- Should I test my furnace before the first cold night?
- Yes. On a mild fall day, set the thermostat to Heat and let the system complete a cycle. Check that it starts, produces heat and shuts off normally; listen for repeated attempts and note any odor that does not fade. Testing early leaves time to schedule a repair before the first cold spell.
- When should I replace instead of repair the heater?
- Repair usually makes sense for a contained fault on equipment that is otherwise sound. Compare replacement when a major component fails on older equipment, repairs are beginning to cluster, comfort or operating cost remains poor, parts are scarce, or a gas furnace has a safety-critical heat-exchanger problem. We can quote both when both are credible options.
- Do you repair heat pumps as well as gas furnaces?
- Yes. We diagnose gas and electric furnaces, ducted heat pumps and dual-fuel systems. Heat pumps require a different set of checks, including refrigerant performance, the reversing valve, defrost controls, thermostat configuration and auxiliary-heat staging.
Work it out first:Repair or replace?System sizing guideHumidity & comfortSEER2 explained
Sources: Climate: NOAA 1991–2020 Climate Normals, Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport. Heating-system maintenance and replacement guidance: ENERGY STAR. Carbon monoxide and fuel-burning equipment safety: U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission. Heat-pump operation and efficiency: U.S. Department of Energy. Page updated .
Where to go next.
The rest of what we do here, and the same work in the towns next door.
Get the heat back on.
Schedule heating repair in Savannah, or call. If the house has no heat, smells of gas, or has a combustion or electrical warning, call rather than waiting on an online request. We find the fault, explain the repair and give you the price before work starts.
No heat, or no cooling at all?Call rather than send a request — (912) 858-3737 is answered around the clock.