Symptom
AC running but not cooling?
An air conditioner can run without cooling properly when airflow is restricted, the indoor coil has frozen, a component has failed, or the refrigerant charge is low because of a leak. Check the thermostat and the air filter first. If the air from the vents is still warm, a technician needs to test the system to find the actual cause.
Soon. Not usually dangerous, but a system running without cooling can damage itself. If the house is getting hot, especially with elderly people, infants or pets at home, call — emergency service runs 24/7.
What usually causes this.
These are the common possibilities, not a diagnosis. A page cannot tell which one it is — that takes a technician testing the system.
- Outdoor unit
- Thermostat
- Refrigerant lines
- Ducts & vents
- The house itself
- Filter & return
- Indoor coil
- Restricted airflow
- A clogged filter, closed or blocked vents, or a crushed duct starves the indoor coil of the warm air it needs to work against. From the thermostat it looks exactly like an equipment failure.
- Frozen evaporator coil
- When airflow drops or the charge is low, the indoor coil can ice over. Air keeps moving but barely cools. Ice on the copper line at the outdoor unit is the visible sign.
- Outdoor unit not running
- If the indoor fan runs but the outdoor fan and compressor don't, the house gets moving air with no cooling. A failed capacitor or contactor is a common cause.
- Low refrigerant from a leak
- Refrigerant isn't used up — it circulates in a sealed loop. If it's low, it leaked. Adding more without finding the leak usually buys weeks, not years.
- Dirty outdoor coil
- The outdoor coil has to reject the heat pulled out of the house. Pollen, grass clippings, salt and dirt reduce that, and cooling drops even though nothing is technically broken.
- Thermostat or control problem
- A thermostat set to the wrong mode, calling incorrectly, or wired to the wrong stage can make a healthy system look faulty.
- System too small or ducts leaking
- On the hottest afternoons an undersized system, or ducts leaking cool air into a hot attic, can run nonstop and never catch up.
What you can safely check.
- Confirm the thermostat is set to Cool, the set point is below room temperature, and the fan is on Auto. Replace its batteries if it has them.
- Pull the air filter and look at it. If you can't see light through it, replace it.
- Make sure supply vents and return grilles are open and not blocked by furniture or rugs.
- Look at the outdoor unit: is the fan turning? Is the coil matted with debris or blocked by plants?
- Look for ice on the copper line at the outdoor unit or on the indoor coil. If you see ice, switch the system off at the thermostat and let it thaw before running it again.
Leave these alone
- Anything involving refrigerant — adding it or checking pressures requires certification and gauges.
- The outdoor unit's electrical panel and the capacitor inside it, which can hold a dangerous charge after the power is off.
- Chipping ice off a coil — the fins and tubing damage easily.
Call rather than book online if:
- The breaker trips again after you reset it once
- You smell burning or see smoke from either unit
- The house is heating up and someone at home is vulnerable to heat
What we check when we get there.
In order, and every time — the point of a diagnostic is to find out which cause it is before anything is replaced.
- 01A technician checks airflow first — filter, blower, coil condition and static pressure — because an airflow problem produces the same symptoms as a refrigerant problem.
- 02Then the electrical side: capacitor, contactor and whether the compressor and outdoor fan are actually running.
- 03Then refrigerant pressures and temperatures. If the charge is low, the next step is finding where it leaked, not just refilling it.
- 04You get the findings in plain terms and the price to fix it before any repair work starts.
What it is likely to cost.
The cost depends on what failed. A capacitor is a small repair; a leaking coil or a failed compressor is a large one and can make replacement worth discussing. You get the diagnostic price before the visit and the repair price before any work.
Repair or replace?
Most no-cooling calls are ordinary component repairs. Replacement becomes worth discussing when the compressor has failed, a coil is leaking, the system uses R-22 refrigerant, or repairs have started to pile up on a system past about 12–15 years old.
Compare repair vs replacement- Diagnostic / service call
- $89
- Capacitor replacement
- From $179
- Leak detection
- From $249
- Leak repair + recharge
- $499–$1,299
- Condenser fan motor
- $449–$799
- Compressor
- $1,799–$3,499
Prices are starting points for standard work in the Savannah area. Final price depends on the system and site, and is confirmed before work begins. Permits and code-required upgrades may be additional.
Questions people ask about this.
- Why is my AC blowing warm air?
- Usually because the outdoor unit isn't running, the indoor coil has frozen, or the refrigerant charge is low from a leak. Check the thermostat mode and the filter first. If the air stays warm, it needs a diagnostic visit.
- My AC runs all day and never reaches the set temperature. Is that broken?
- On the hottest afternoons a correctly sized system may run for long stretches — that's normal. If it never catches up even into the evening, something is limiting capacity: airflow, charge, a dirty coil, or duct leakage.
- Can I just add refrigerant?
- Not safely or legally without certification, and it doesn't fix anything on its own. Refrigerant doesn't get used up, so a low charge means there's a leak that needs finding.
- Should I keep running it?
- If you see ice, or the outdoor unit is humming without the fan turning, switch it off at the thermostat. Running it that way can damage the compressor.
Work out the decision:Repair or Replace?
Further reading:Does your AC just need more refrigerant?What an AC tune-up should actually includeWhat salt air does to outdoor equipmentR-410A, R-454B and the refrigerant change: what it means for you
The service that fixes it.
Air Conditioning Repair is the work behind this symptom. Its page covers what is involved, how it is quoted and what we stand behind.
- 01Air Conditioning RepairCooling gone out, or running but not keeping up? We diagnose it properly and fix the actual fault.
- 02Maintenance PlansTwice-yearly service that catches small faults before they become July breakdowns.
- 03AC Installation & ReplacementNew and replacement cooling systems, sized to the house rather than to whatever was there before.
Symptoms that sit next to it.
Systems rarely fail in one way only. If one of these is also true, say so when you book — it narrows the diagnosis before anyone arrives.
Air conditioner not cooling, not starting, freezing up, leaking or making noise.
- AC won't turn onWhen an air conditioner won't turn on at all, the cause is usually power, the thermostat, a safety switch that has shut the system off (often a full condensate drain), or a failed electrical component such as a capacitor or contactor.
- AC frozen / iced upIce on an air conditioner's copper lines or indoor coil almost always means the coil is getting too cold — usually because airflow across it is restricted, or because the refrigerant charge is low from a leak.
- AC leaking waterAn air conditioner leaking water indoors is usually a blocked condensate drain, an overflowing or cracked drain pan, or a frozen coil melting.
- Outdoor unit not runningIf the indoor fan is blowing but the outdoor unit isn't running, the house gets moving air without cooling.
- AC making a noiseA new noise from an air conditioner usually points to a specific part.
Not sure which it is?Describe it to the assistant
Everything else we are called about.
The whole index, in three groups.
HUMIDITY, AIRFLOW & ENERGY BILLS
House feels humid or dampSome rooms too hot or coldPower bill suddenly higher
Get it looked at.
We cover Savannah, the Coastal Empire and the South Carolina Lowcountry. Tell us what the system is doing — you do not need to know the cause. The diagnostic price is given to you before the visit, and the repair price before any work starts.
No heat, or no cooling at all?Call rather than send a request — (912) 858-3737 is answered around the clock.