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BRABHAM HVAC

Problem

Furnace blowing cold air?

A furnace blowing cold air is often a thermostat set to fan On rather than Auto, a furnace that has shut its burners off on a safety limit, or an ignition problem. With a heat pump, briefly cool air during a defrost cycle is normal. If the air stays cold with the thermostat set correctly, the system needs to be diagnosed.

Uncomfortable, and in a cold snap it can become urgent. For no heat at all on a cold night, call — emergency service runs 24/7.

What usually causes this

These are the common possibilities, not a diagnosis. A page cannot tell which one it is — that takes a technician testing the system.

Fan set to On
With the thermostat fan set to On, the blower runs between heating cycles and moves unheated air. Setting it to Auto usually fixes this.
Warm-up delay
Many furnaces start the blower a moment after the burners light. A few seconds of cool air at start-up is normal.
Burners shut off by a safety limit
A clogged filter or blocked return makes the furnace overheat. The limit switch turns the burners off while the blower keeps running, so air turns cold.
Ignition or flame-sensor fault
If the burners fail to light or drop out, the blower may still run and push cold air.
Heat pump defrost or low charge
Heat pumps briefly blow cooler air during defrost. Air that stays lukewarm can mean a low refrigerant charge or a reversing valve problem.
Leaking ducts
Ducts leaking in a cold attic or crawlspace can deliver air noticeably cooler than it left the furnace.

What you can safely check yourself

  • Set the thermostat fan to Auto and the mode to Heat.
  • Replace a dirty filter.
  • Check that return grilles aren't blocked.
  • For a heat pump, watch the outdoor unit: steam and a few minutes of cooler air during defrost are normal.

Leave these alone

  • · The burners, gas valve, flame sensor and igniter.
  • · Resetting the furnace repeatedly to get it to light.

Call rather than book online if:

  • · You smell gas — leave the house and call the gas utility or 911 from outside
  • · A carbon monoxide alarm sounds
  • · There's no heat and temperatures are dropping below freezing
(912) 858-3737

What we check when we get there

  1. 1The technician confirms the thermostat call, then watches a full heating cycle to see whether the burners light and stay lit, or whether a limit or flame-sensing fault is shutting them down.
  2. 2For heat pumps, pressures, reversing valve operation and defrost behavior are checked.

What it is likely to cost

A thermostat setting costs nothing. Flame sensors and igniters are moderate repairs; blower motors and reversing valves cost more. You get the price before work starts.

Heating diagnostic
$89
Flame sensor
From $149
Ignitor
From $199
Blower motor
From $499
Reversing valve
From $699

Prices are starting points for standard work in the Savannah area. Final price depends on the system and site, and is confirmed before work begins. Permits and code-required upgrades may be additional.

Questions people ask about this

Is it normal for a heat pump to blow cool air in winter?
Briefly, yes. During defrost the system reverses for a few minutes to clear frost off the outdoor coil. Air that stays lukewarm for long periods isn't normal.
The furnace blows warm air, then cold, then warm again.
That pattern often means the furnace is overheating and tripping its limit switch — frequently because of a clogged filter or restricted airflow. Replace the filter; if it continues, have it checked.

The service that fixes this

Heating & Furnace Repair

Furnace not lighting, blowing cold, or cutting out early? We get heat back and check it is safe.

Heating

Work out the decision

Get it looked at

We cover Savannah, the Coastal Empire and the South Carolina Lowcountry. Tell us what the system is doing — you do not need to know the cause. The diagnostic price is given to you before the visit, and the repair price before any work starts.