Before cooling season
Change the filter and note the date. Check that supply and return vents are open and not blocked by furniture or rugs.
Look at the outdoor unit: clear leaves and clippings, cut back anything growing into it, and check that the coil fins are not matted. With the power off at the disconnect, a gentle rinse with plain water is reasonable — never a pressure washer, which bends the fins and makes airflow worse.
Pour a cup of water into the condensate drain pan and confirm it drains. Blocked drains are the most common nuisance failure in a humid climate.
Before heating season
Change the filter again. Run the heat for a few minutes on a mild day rather than discovering a fault on the first cold night.
Expect a brief burning smell as dust burns off. Do not accept a persistent one, repeated short cycling, or a burner flame that lifts and rolls.
Test the carbon monoxide alarms and replace the batteries. If there are no CO alarms in a house with gas heat, fit them.
Through the year
Keep a note of filter changes and anything unusual — a noise, a smell, a room that stopped keeping up. That history is genuinely useful to a technician and is almost always missing.
Watch the bill as much as the thermostat. A system quietly losing efficiency shows up there first.
What to leave alone
Anything involving refrigerant. Anything inside the electrical panel or the unit's control box — capacitors hold a charge after the power is off. Anything involving the gas supply or burner assembly.
Also leave sealed ductwork joints and any component you would have to remove a panel to reach. The savings are not worth the risk.
Nothing here replaces a proper measurement. The free site visit is the point at which we confirm every figure — call (912) 858-3737 or book one below.
Further reading:What an AC tune-up should actually includeWhich air filter, and how often, in a humid house?What salt air does to outdoor equipmentGetting a furnace ready for its first cold night